Jonathan Schofield Manchester Tours
  • HOME
  • Calendar of tours
  • GUEST COMMENTS
  • Some tours in pictures
  • Manchester books by Jonathan Schofield
  • T&Cs
  • Why I would never do free tours
  • CONTACT DETAILS AND BIOGRAPHY
  • VOUCHERS & DEALS
  • Tour Diary: Confessions of a guide
  • Saturday Walkabout Series: Music, Pubs, Ghosts
  • Bombed & Besieged: Manchester at War
  • This Mighty Manchester
  • New Year's Day tour 2026
  • Secrets of Ancoats & New Islington
  • Secrets of Didsbury
  • Sleazy & Sinister Mcr
  • EXCLUSIVE: Refuge/ Kimpton Clock Tower Hotel
  • Valentine's Day tour 14 February
  • ​Chorlton tour
  • Halloween and ghost tours
  • The Tour of Uninteresting Objects
  • Whalley Range & Alexandra Park
  • Stockport Secrets
  • Knutsford Secrets
  • Secrets of the University of Manchester with interior visits
  • Suffragettes, Women & Manchester
  • Secrets of Cheadle
  • Southern Cemetery Tour
  • Truly Madly Brutal
  • Secrets of Worsley
  • Secrets of Chapel Street & Greengate Park
  • Friedrich Engels And Karl Marx Tours
  • Secrets of Strangeways & Cheetham Hill
  • Manchester Cathedral tour
  • Trees, flowers and Mcr's Green Spaces Tour
  • Secrets of Rochdale town centre
  • The Secrets of Altrincham
  • Secrets of Angel Meadow and the Irk ValleyAir, Scuttlers, Lost Churches and Hidden Stories
  • EXCLUSIVE Salford Lads Club and Middlewood Locks
  • Secrets of the Northern Quarter
  • The Surprising Manchester Series: Old Trafford
  • Lost and Imagined talk
  • The Day The World Got Smaller Tour
  • Literary Manchester: A city in words
  • The Pan-African Congress, Slavery, and Thomas Clarkson Tour: A Manchester Anniversary Tour
  • Manchester Necropolis: rattle my bones
  • EXCLUSIVE: 'Boldest Building' Tour, Edgar Wood Centre
  • Stones of Manchester
  • Spinningfields Tours - Free
  • FREE Scientists, sinners and graveyards: A Tale of Two Citie
  • Architecture & Planning: why does Manchester look like it does?
  • EXCLUSIVE: Mayfield Station tours
  • EXCLUSIVE: Ordsall Hall and Manchester Ship Canal tour
  • Secrets of Littleborough
  • April Fool's Day Tour - The Incredibly Serious Tour
  • Secrets of Fairfield Moravian Settlement
  • The Death & Beer Tour 2022
  • Secret Tunnels Tour
  • Magical Manchester Mystery Tour - by bike
  • Peterloo Massacre: The Reality & The Drama
  • Castlefield, St Johns, First Street
  • The Secrets of Middleton
  • Talk: Lost Buildings of Manchester & Salford
  • Platt Fields, Birch Fields and Rusholme Tour
  • Some tours
  • The Zoom Tours series
  • Loyalty card/scheme
  • First Wednesday Spinningfields Series 2020
  • Exclusive: 35 King St & Georgian Manchester
  • Some Published Articles On Manchester's Present, its Heritage and Tourism
  • The Rollicking Pub Tour
  • The Surprising Manchester Series: Bradford & Clayton
  • EXCLUSIVE: Kampus tours, the abandoned warehouses
  • Incredible Interiors
  • Shock, Surprise, Prose & Verse: Manchester and Literature
  • Ford Madox Brown and Pre-Raphaelite Manchester
  • Podcasts
  • Secrets of Wilmslow 2025
  • Lost Graveyards and the Dead
  • Return to 1421: The Old Towne and Medieval Manchester
  • EXCLUSIVE TOUR: New Century Tour, perfection in design from 1963
  • Suggested Private Tours
  • Anthony Burgess and Literary Manchester Tour
  • Great Northern Tunnel Tour
  • 1840s Manchester: The Key Decade, talk and tour
  • Burns Night Tour Monday 25 January
  • Fire Station Tours: Calling Photographers & Sketchers
  • Manchester City of Art Tour
  • The Gallery
  • The Ghosts of Afflecks & the Northern Quarter
  • New Manchester Squares Tour
  • The Manchester Guardian is 200 tour
  • The Understanding Architecture Series
  • FREE The Hidden Rivers Tour
  • Heaton Hall and Park Tour
  • Oasis & Mcr Tour
  • Death, Beauty & Beer Tour of Brooklands and Sale
  • EXCLUSIVE: Chetham's Library and College House
  • Liverpool - in two parts
  • FREE - ​Ballads, battles and big ideas: Embankment, Salford
  • EXCLUSIVE Hallé St Peter’s & Ancoats Tour NEW
  • The Prestwich Tour: The surprising Manchester series
  • The Secrets of Gorton Monastery
  • The First Street tour – People, Music, Arts, Mills

De Niro, Mcr's Christopher Wren, Leaf Blowers, The Mill gets it very wrong

15/11/2025

0 Comments

 
Picture
Big tower, big star

Tuesday 11 November and in Albion Street’s packed railway arches developer Salboy unveiled a monumental model of their proposed 246-metre “landmark’” tower. This hardly needed the repeated vocalisation of “landmark” as it will inevitably be so, it’s bloody massive.

Viadux Two, aka Nobu Tower, will sit between the tramlines over from the Briton’s Protection pub and the already completed Viadux One which is a neighbour of Beetham Tower. It will be 806 feet high in old money, whereas the current lanky lad in Manchester is South Tower at Deansgate Square at 201m or 659ft. I’m a sucker for an architectural model. The model for Viadux Two, aka Nobu Tower, is a stunner, probably 11ft high and meticulously and gleefully detailed.

The launch party and the model attracted lots of attention but most people had come for something else. They’d come to grab a sprinkling of fairy dust. They wanted to bask in the presence of a real Hollywood celebrity. Oscar-winning Robert De Niro was in town along with two other co-founders of Nobu.

Nobu will bring a very high end restaurant on the ground floor and a hotel and 'residences' higher up – literally high end. The residences will live up to the overused estate agent epithet of ‘luxury’ for once.

The media were in a frenzy as you might have noticed from the local and national coverage. Meanwhile De Niro was honest about how little he knew about Manchester. In a short speech he threw in some nice platitudes about the city having “real character” and seemed “creative, passionate, strong,” but that was it. The 82-year-old finished with: “I look forward to coming back when (Nobu Tower) is finished, if not before. I plan to be around. It’s gonna take six years. I'm gonna MAKE sure I'm around.” The last sentence carried an echo of the “You talking to me?” scene in Scorsese’s Taxi Driver.

I’m currently writing a full article on the event, Nobu and the architecture to be published next week.

​
Picture
Christopher Wren of Manchester?

The architectural practice behind the tower is SimpsonHaugh. Is there another city anywhere where one firm dominates the skyline as completely as this lot? All the towers at this end of the city, save two or three short arses, are from the practice. Surely the last time this happened was in London with Christopher Wren’s church spires and towers three hundred years ago. At the Nobu launch I asked Ian Simpson whether he was the 21st century Manc Wren. He laughed and said: “I’d prefer Waterhouse.” Alfred Waterhouse was the architect of Manchester Town Hall, the University, part of the Kimpton Clock Tower Hotel (Refuge Assurance) and so many other Manchester buildings. Perhaps Simpson will get a Wetherspoons named after him, just like Waterhouse on Princess Street.

Sunlight House gets an expensive polish


There was a very lively launch event at Sunlight House a couple of weeks ago with GM Mayor Andy Burnham present. The Art Deco classic has been refurbished at a price of £35m by French company Karrev. The 1932 building is named after Joe Sunlight, the maverick Russian Jewish émigré, who designed and owned the building. The most impressive internal feature is the huge light well that falls away seemingly for miles. Current tenants include The Crown Prosecution Service. The swimming pool which was there from the beginning is now unfortunately dry but will remain as recreational space. At the event it was sweet the very fine historian and genealogist, Michala Hulme, had discovered a great niece of Joe Sunlight, Marion Panayi. This lovely elderly lady was at the launch for a walk down memory lane. I wrote about Sunlight House and Joe here in a piece about a tower that was proposed and never built and then a new tower which has once again failed to materialise.

Myth-busting: Sunlight House wasn’t the first Manchester skyscraper


Every article and book says Sunlight House was Manchester’s first skyscraper and the tallest building in the city centre when it opened in 1932 with its 14 floors rising to 41m (135ft). This is odd because clearly it wasn’t. Ship Canal House opened in 1927 and is 46m (151ft). Manchester Town Hall opened in 1877 and its tower is 85m (280ft). It’s curious how a story gets repeated and then becomes the truth.

Picture
Picture
Heavenly drinking den opens
Here’s good news for spirit aficionados. Elysium is now welcoming customers on Princess Street with its superb collection of more than 300 whiskies (and whiskeys). There are also cocktails, wines and a whisky tasting room. For reference, Elysium sits between Rozafa Greek Restaurant, and the Waterhouse, Wetherspoons Pub on Princess Street. The operator and owner, Alan and Mark, previously at the Britons Protection have created the place from nothing, it was formerly a job recruitment office. Entertaining if not gainful employment can be had propping up the bar.


Picture
Chorlton food scene on the up

The Horse and Jockey Pub in Chorlton has been revitalized under the management of Neil Burke and Ben Chaplin of The Black Friar, Salford. It’s the first Joseph Holt pub to be managed by another company. It is quite exceptional. The up-to-date food features lots of British classics with the occasional Mediterranean flourish from talented head chef Paolo Bianchi whose career included a spell with Alain Ducasse at the Eiffel Tower. The Horse and Jockey is immediately providing the best food of its type in a Manchester suburb. Chorlton’s got lucky. The proof of the pudding, if you forgive the pun, is it’s amazing popularity. The place has been packed most nights and has a lovely olde worlde low ceilinged atmosphere complete with real fires. It's in a fine location on Chorlton Green too. Have a gander at the menu here.

Piccadilly symbiosis


I interviewed Manchester Council Leader, Bev Craig
, about the proposed Piccadilly Gardens improvements recently. Strolling around the area and talking to some of the habitués can be depressing but there are some grim moments of humour. One shop on Piccadilly is called Smokers Paradise. It’s neighbour is the British Heart Foundation charity shop (see pic below). Not sure if one leads to another.

Picture
Leaf blowers and the Swiss

I was doing a tour with some Swiss people last week. One of the young women asked about the electoral system in the UK. I said we had national and local government elections and she said “But what about other issues? What about referendums?” I suggested we don’t do those very well. “We have lots of referendums,” she said. They really do.
Turns out the Swiss have February referendums and September referendums. This seems excessive. In September there was a nationwide referendum about whether there should be electronic identity cards, a big debate in Britain too, of course. The majority was tiny which may sound familiar, 50.4% for and 49.6% against. Are such tiny majorities justification for changing the direction of national policy? I don’t think so.
In September in Zurich there was another referendum. This was to ban leaf blowers on the grounds of noise and pollution. “There was a big majority in favour,” said the young woman on the tour. They have whopping problems those Swiss, eh?
While describing the Suffragette movement and Manchester the Swiss reminded me that women in Switzerland didn’t get the vote until 1971. In one canton, Appenzell Innerhoden it was as late as 1990. The only people voting in those referendums were men of course.

The best sculpture in the city centre?

For me this is Charles Jagger’s Sentry in Watts Warehouse, now the Britannia Hotel. In this Remembrance Week I think it’s worth reminding people about it, maybe go down and take a look. Don’t stay in the hotel though. It’s rubbish. You can read my description of the work here.

The Mill and the BBC familiarisation trips

If you have any public profile in Manchester you’ll find yourself featured in The Mill at some point as did I with their story some weeks back about guiding in Manchester.
This intro to last week’s feature about the BBC moving to MediaCity was irritating though.
‘In autumn of 2008, a fat coach full of London media moguls squeezed its way down Lapwing Lane, West Didsbury. Through scratched plexiglass they saw the sights: the deli, the candle shop, the solicitor and the skin doctor. They drove through Whalley Range to see Victorian villas. They bent heavily round the M60. “I realised they wanted to show [us] places that looked like Clapham, or Wimbledon,” one passenger now recalls (the “us” was initially “all these spoilt gentrified people from London,” but I’ve edited the quote to make it kinder). “I can’t remember if we went to North Manchester or not,” he says. “We might have gone to Prestwich.”’

The truth about the BBC familiarisations

It didn't happen like that in the slightest. I was the tour guide and trip organiser for the visits. What we usually did was drive through Castlefield, Whalley Range, Chorlton, the Didsburys, then through Altrincham and Sale and up to Ramsbottom. I wanted to show the guests a proper Pennine town.
We returned down the east side, through those well-known glam spots of Clayton and Beswick, past Manchester City FC and then back into the city centre. So, of course, since the aim was to get people to relocate we went through the ‘nice’ places but there was no shirking from other areas and I promise the commentary was, as agreed with the BBC, ‘warts and all’.
The guests weren't media moguls. Anything but. They were from all levels of the BBC from office admin staff to presenters and producers. None of them were ‘media moguls’. As for the ‘fat coach’ it was normal size and hadn’t put on any weight. The writer, Ophira Gottlieb, could have just asked me about this but for reasons unknown didn’t.
The Mill does a lot of good stuff but two points. I wish they wouldn’t keep telling us how good they are. It seems pathetic, like a kid seeking approval. Also they shouldn’t lead with unattributed quotes as a hook for articles and then use them freely within the articles. That’s naughty journalism.

Stockport welcome

During a recent tour of Stockport I stopped outside a very nondescript building in a car park opposite The Arden Arms to talk about the fabulous eighteenth century Elizabeth Raffald. I was halfway through my spiel, fascinating naturally, when through the walls of this nondescript building a voice shouted, “Will you shut the f*** up!” It was 10.30 in the morning so not particularly early. The whole group started laughing and one local guest said: “Welcome to Stockport.”


Books for Christmas? Check out some of my titles here.
0 Comments

Manchester's best city centre sculpture? I think so

14/11/2025

0 Comments

 
Picture
THERE's only one place I go in central Manchester to brood on World War One. I go to the tired and faded Britannia Hotel and look a determined Tommy in the eye.
In the lofty foyer of this former textile warehouse is Charles Jagger’s unforgettable Manchester Sentry.

None of the other city war memorials have work that approaches Jagger's in its power, feeling and accomplishment

Our warrior is defiant and watchful but weary too, exuding from all his metallic pores and all the metallic folds and lines of his great coat, ‘the pity of War’, as poet Wilfred Owen, an officer in the Manchester Regiment described it.
​
There is no better work in the city to individualise the conflict and put a face to the ghastly statistics of death as the European powers threw their men onto the guns and the wire. British and Commonwealth forces lost just shy of a million dead with over two million wounded. 

Picture
Wilfred Owen was perhaps the best known of the war poets. He died just before Armistice Day in 1918. His mother opened the telegram informing the family of his death as church bells were ringing to announce the end of the war. You can see Wilfred Owen’s name in the Books of Remembrance in the Regimental Chapel in Manchester Cathedral. 

Owen's words about the 'pity of War' refer to his desire to reveal through his poetry the tragedy of war, its reality, the blood and mud rather than vague notions of glory and honour, abstract nouns far removed from the actual slaughter.
​
The sculptor of the Manchester Sentry likewise wanted to keep it real. Charles Sargeant Jagger, originally from Rotherham, had served in the war and had been wounded. He knew the war from the inside.
Picture
He wanted his sculptures to be the opposite of derring-do idealism and show something of the grit of the fighting man and life in the trenches. His species of 'realism' was at odds with the mood of the day, when all the most progressive artists were adopting the various schools of Modernism.

At the same time Jagger's realism was far removed from the melodrama and sentimentality of much art before 1914. 

The Manchester Sentry was commissioned by the Watts family for their textile heaquarters in Manchester to mark the sacrifice of several hundred of their staff.

The statue was erected in 1921. After surviving the 1940 blitz that destroyed so many buildings around the Piccadilly area, it was vandalised sometime in the noughties when the bayonet mounted on the rifle was stolen. No doubt it was a drunken prank in a hotel group with the worst reputation in the UK and one that promotes cheap drinks, but it damaged the balance of the artwork.

We have to be thankful, back in the 1980s after the Portland Street building had closed as a warehouse, that the Britannia group rescued it through conversion to a hotel. Thirty years on the goodwill is exhausted. Given the hotel group's lack of respect for the city it's perhaps too much to expect them to respect Jagger's Manchester Sentry and replace his bayonet.
Picture
There are a number of company war memorials in Manchester buildings including a large one at Victoria Station. This features the devil, in otherwords German militarism, being slain by St Michael, in otherwords the democratic countries, but none of the other city war memorials have work that approaches Jagger's in its power, feeling and accomplishment. 

My great-uncle Tom Hodgson was a member of the regular army at the start of the war. He embarked in August 1914 with 80,000 others for Belgium and France. He didn't last the month, killed at the Battle of Mons. I think of him, now a century dead, when I pause by Jagger's Manchester Sentry.
 I try to give a nod to all the war dead. ​

One of my favourite passages from a WW1 autobiography
World War One is not just fascinating for personal reasons. The static nature of the war in western Europe, to-ing and fro-ing over a few miles of terrain, with heavily industrialised nations, blasting millions of tons of hot metal over man, beast and landscape, is gripping, hellish.
Wilfred Owen's friend Siegfried Sassoon, another poet, in his Memoirs of an Infantry Office, captured the scale and pity of the war in his description of a battalion returning to a camp behind the lines after being at the front in the Battle of the Somme in 1916. It's magical prose.
‘An hour before dawn the road was still an empty picture of moonlight. The distant gunfire had crashed and rumbled all night, muffled and terrific with immense flashes, like waves of some tumult of water rolling along the horizon.
'Now there came an interval of silence in which I heard a horse neigh, shrill and scared and lonely. Then the procession of the returning troops began. The campfires were burning low when the grinding jolting column lumbered back. The field guns came first, with nodding men sitting stiffly on weary horses, followed by wagons and limbers and field kitchens. After this rumble of wheels came the infantry, shambling, limping, straggling and out of step. If anyone spoke it was only a muttered word, and the mounted offices rode as if asleep. The men had carried their emergency water in petrol cans against which bayonets made a hollow clink; except for the shuffling feet this was the only sound.
'Thus, with almost spectral appearance, the lurching brown figures flitted past with slung rifles and heads bent forward under basin helmets. Moonlight and dawn began to mingle, and I could see the barley swaying indolently against the sky. A train groaned along the riverside sending up a cloud of whitish fiery smoke against the gloom of the trees
‘Soon (the troops) had dispersed and settled down on the hillside, and were asleep in the daylight which made everything seem ordinary. None the less I had seen something that night which overawed me. It was all in the day’s work – an exhausted division returning from the Somme offensive – but for me it was as though I had watched an army of ghosts. It was as though I had seen the war as it might be envisioned by the mind of some epic poet a hundred year’s sense.’

The hundred years have been passed now. Jagger’s superb evocation of that war now stands guard over stag parties and hen parties in the Britannia Hotel

0 Comments

'UK's most horrifying sculpture?': Man on Fire, Imperial War Museum North

5/11/2025

0 Comments

 
Picture
I took a group of MSc young people from Henley Business School around this week. On the second day we did a tour of The Quays. At the Imperial War Museum North I showed them this work. It impressed them mightily. The Masters students were enthralled and horrified by its raw power. This is my review of it from a couple of years ago. It still has the power to shock. 

What: Man on Fire, a sculpture installed on Friday 7 July, 2023.

Permanent or Temporary: Permanent

Where: Imperial War Museum North (IWMN), outside in the compound, adjacent to and visible from Trafford Wharf Road.
​
Who: The sculptor is Tim Shaw (pictured below) who was born in Belfast in 1964, went to college at Manchester Polytechnic and Falmouth University and has a studio in Cornwall. The word controversial doesn’t cover the hard and direct rhetoric of his work. 

In the early noughties for the Eden Project, one of his sculptures, Silenus, a Greek deity of music, debauchery and drunkenness, was held back for fear of upsetting people. It did. When first on display in London, the sculpture was attacked by a man with an iron bar shouting "You're worshiping the wrong God!”

The sculpture certainly had presence. It was three metres high ‘naked, portly, and proudly erect’. Shaw’s main artistic theme, though, is conflict as this IWMN work, Man on Fire, emphasises. 
Picture
What IWMN says: Monumental in scale, Man on Fire captures the dreadful moments of a person on fire, caught between life and death. Primarily based on images of the 2005 Basra riots during the Iraq War, it was also inspired by photographs of the 2007 Glasgow airport attack and by Shaw’s own memories of growing up during The Troubles in Northern Ireland.
​

What Shaw says: Although this work was originally shaped by photographs of a soldier diving for his life from a burning armoured vehicle, Man on Fire bears witness to the universal horror of war. War is time old, and conflict does not discriminate between gender, age or country. Russia’s brutal invasion of Ukraine testifies to the fact that we continually repeat the same tragic mistakes.
Picture
Opinion: This is one of the most powerful sculptures you might ever see. It is absolutely horrifying. It will remain in your mind’s eye long after you’ve walked away.

The almost five-metre work is a permanent shadow even in sunshine, a dark throb of pain outside IWMN. The material used is oily black-rendered bronze with the appearance of recently melted rubber. In wet weather the sculpture carries the sickly sheen of hot tar. At the rear, embeded in the work is a tyre, which makes you shudder and recall ‘necklacing’ in South Africa.

The main figure is of a man, running, swathed in black fire, flames forced behind as he bends forward in agony, his skin being stripped from his body by the heat. You can't help yourself but bend to look at his face. This excites even more horror. The eyes are bulging, lips peeled back, tongue obscenely exposed, in a desperate wrenching silent scream. You might want to look away immediately.
Picture
We live in an age where apparently harmless novels, plays and films are given trigger warnings so our sensitive selves won’t be offended by their content. The same thing happens in galleries. Trigger warnings usually insult our intelligence, so it’s almost surprising within this atmosphere of academic and curatorial anxiety that Man on Fire, given its graphic nature, doesn’t have a trigger warning posted 10 metres away. Heaven forfend IWMN ever posts one. 

If comparisons are sought for the work then the obvious one is Francisco Goya’s, The Disasters of War set during the Napoleanic Wars in Spain. Shaw has updated those ghastly images, turned them 3D and scaled them up. 

His skill with Man on Fire is to personalise the horrors of war, condense them into the fate of one doomed and terrified soul. These horrors are often made banal through the filter of screen, magazine or newspaper and is often played down in art exhibitions. Man on Fire shows us the heart of what war is; the violence, the pain, the death, the pure visceral hell of it.

The piece does a remarkable thing. This is a work of art that feels real, or as real as we can get without being involved inside a conflict. So much public art is meaningless tat, an afterthought, IWMN should be praised for delivering something with real punch to Greater Manchester. 
​

You might find Man on Fire disgusting, it might horrify you, you might hate it, I think in many ways I feel all these things, yet, I guarantee you, as I did, you will also find it impressive, powerful and moving.

Rating: 10/10 for the sheer power of the work.
0 Comments


    Archives

    November 2025
    October 2025
    September 2025
    May 2025
    April 2025
    March 2025
    February 2025
    January 2025
    May 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    September 2020
    May 2020
    December 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    June 2015
    March 2015
    November 2014
    October 2014
    July 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    March 2013
    February 2013
    November 2012
    October 2011
    October 2010
    June 2010
    May 2010
    February 2010

    Categories

    All

    RSS Feed

Proudly powered by Weebly