Of all the scruffy areas of the central conurbation, the Strangeways/Cheetham Hill Road area on the border between Manchester and Salford is the worst. There are lots of wholesale retail, rag trade and food outlets with too much litter. Buildings are often rundown and look either temporary or obsolete.
For years the area was known as the counterfeit capital of Europe although this is now changing as the local authorities and police have clamped down.
Architecturally it’s crazy, with good, even significant buildings, cheek by jowl with the aforementioned decrepitude. Sadly even the good buildings are usually in a state of hopeless disrepair.
There are former theatres, a decayed ice skating rink, old synagogues, a former town hall, zillions of modern warehouses and a brewery - the magnificent Joseph Holt brewery. On the picture below a man who so loves Joseph Holt beer he's got the Derby Street entrance to the brewery tattooed on his back.
For years the area was known as the counterfeit capital of Europe although this is now changing as the local authorities and police have clamped down.
Architecturally it’s crazy, with good, even significant buildings, cheek by jowl with the aforementioned decrepitude. Sadly even the good buildings are usually in a state of hopeless disrepair.
There are former theatres, a decayed ice skating rink, old synagogues, a former town hall, zillions of modern warehouses and a brewery - the magnificent Joseph Holt brewery. On the picture below a man who so loves Joseph Holt beer he's got the Derby Street entrance to the brewery tattooed on his back.
The biggest fan of Joseph Holt brewery has the entrance tattooed on his back.
Derby Street, the former Jewish School on the left and the former headquarters of Marks &Spencer on the right.
The traders in Cheetham Hill and around Bury New Road are largely of Asian and Middle-Eastern origin. Before these traders arrived there was a Jewish community here, hence the Jewish Museum on the main road. In Derby Street an Asian wholesaler sits inside a former Jewish School from 1869. This was built by the established Sephardic community (originally from around the Mediterranean basin) who wanted to teach the incoming Ashkenazi folk, poorer Jewish immigrants, how to be more British. Yiddish wasn’t allowed.
Across the road is the former headquarters of Marks and Spencer from 1901-1923, also a clothing wholesaler. The working class Ashkenazi came to Britain to make a living and find opportunity in a safe and stable place and that’s what many of the recent immigrants have done. It’s the way history in cities flows in these types of places, different groups replace each other.
Cycling around the location I also noticed the area is the home of Town Girls Manchester which opens from 11am to 5am every day apparently. No idea what that place does.
Across the road is the former headquarters of Marks and Spencer from 1901-1923, also a clothing wholesaler. The working class Ashkenazi came to Britain to make a living and find opportunity in a safe and stable place and that’s what many of the recent immigrants have done. It’s the way history in cities flows in these types of places, different groups replace each other.
Cycling around the location I also noticed the area is the home of Town Girls Manchester which opens from 11am to 5am every day apparently. No idea what that place does.
A film crew about to interview yours truly on a sunny day some years ago with the old entrance to Strangeways Prison behind.
There’s also the prison here; Strangeways Prison now known as His Majesty’s Prison (HMP) Manchester.
And this is the big problem with redevelopment.
Manchester have politely asked the Ministry of Justice if they wouldn’t mind vacating the prison and building one somewhere else. They’ve asked coyly with a pretty please and a big-eyed disarming look. It hasn’t worked. The Ministry of Justice are going nowhere. The prison has a capacity of 745 and as anybody following the news will know the Ministry needs all the beds it can muster.
Still, despite the problems the councils of Manchester and Salford are approving a masterplan for the area which will go to public consultation at the end of March.
This is what they have released to the press.
The draft Strategic Regeneration Framework (SRF) reports will be heard by both Councils’ respective executive and cabinet committees outlining the vision that will guide wide-scale investment and development across the 130 hectare city fringe location over the coming decades.
The draft Strangeways and Cambridge (the Salford side of the project) SRF presents a high-level vision for the area, building on the work of the Operation Vulcan policing operation, to provide a platform for legitimate businesses to grow and thrive, alongside a major new urban park, significant new housing – including affordable homes – and significant commercial and employment opportunities.
The programme of investment estimates the combined development areas could see up to 7,000 new homes across seven distinct ‘neighbourhood’ areas, increased commercial floorspace of around 1.75m sqft, and the regeneration could support an additional 4,500 jobs.
The draft SRF presents a development approach that will support Manchester’s target to become a zero-carbon city by 2038 and reacts to other environmental factors in the areas, including potential flooding linked to climate change.
The SRF also reflects how HM Prison Manchester – formerly Strangeways Prison – remains a significant barrier to the regeneration ambitions in this part of the city and the framework will act as an engagement tool with the Ministry of Justice around the long-term future of the prison.
The key themes of the SRF include:
Business and Employment: Increase business and employment opportunities – supporting ongoing economic growth in both Manchester and Salford.
Green and Blue Infrastructure: Create a network of green spaces and celebrate the River Irwell – including the creation of a large new city centre park (working title: Copper Park) - and respond to flood risk
Movement: Prioritise a ‘people first’ approach to the regeneration, including active travel while carefully managing parking, servicing and delivery requirements.
Heritage and Culture: Celebrate the existing architecture and heritage buildings in the area as part of the comprehensive regeneration plans.
This draft Strangeways and Cambridge SRF document has been prepared on behalf of MCC and SCC by Avison Young with Maccreanor Lavington Architects, Feilden Clegg Bradley Studios, Schulze+Grassov, Civic Engineers, Useful Projects and PLACED.
Following the respective Council approvals, consultation around the SRF document will begin at the end of March, the results of which will be reported to future Executive and Cabinet meetings.
Further information on the SRF can be found here.
And this is the big problem with redevelopment.
Manchester have politely asked the Ministry of Justice if they wouldn’t mind vacating the prison and building one somewhere else. They’ve asked coyly with a pretty please and a big-eyed disarming look. It hasn’t worked. The Ministry of Justice are going nowhere. The prison has a capacity of 745 and as anybody following the news will know the Ministry needs all the beds it can muster.
Still, despite the problems the councils of Manchester and Salford are approving a masterplan for the area which will go to public consultation at the end of March.
This is what they have released to the press.
The draft Strategic Regeneration Framework (SRF) reports will be heard by both Councils’ respective executive and cabinet committees outlining the vision that will guide wide-scale investment and development across the 130 hectare city fringe location over the coming decades.
The draft Strangeways and Cambridge (the Salford side of the project) SRF presents a high-level vision for the area, building on the work of the Operation Vulcan policing operation, to provide a platform for legitimate businesses to grow and thrive, alongside a major new urban park, significant new housing – including affordable homes – and significant commercial and employment opportunities.
The programme of investment estimates the combined development areas could see up to 7,000 new homes across seven distinct ‘neighbourhood’ areas, increased commercial floorspace of around 1.75m sqft, and the regeneration could support an additional 4,500 jobs.
The draft SRF presents a development approach that will support Manchester’s target to become a zero-carbon city by 2038 and reacts to other environmental factors in the areas, including potential flooding linked to climate change.
The SRF also reflects how HM Prison Manchester – formerly Strangeways Prison – remains a significant barrier to the regeneration ambitions in this part of the city and the framework will act as an engagement tool with the Ministry of Justice around the long-term future of the prison.
The key themes of the SRF include:
Business and Employment: Increase business and employment opportunities – supporting ongoing economic growth in both Manchester and Salford.
Green and Blue Infrastructure: Create a network of green spaces and celebrate the River Irwell – including the creation of a large new city centre park (working title: Copper Park) - and respond to flood risk
Movement: Prioritise a ‘people first’ approach to the regeneration, including active travel while carefully managing parking, servicing and delivery requirements.
Heritage and Culture: Celebrate the existing architecture and heritage buildings in the area as part of the comprehensive regeneration plans.
This draft Strangeways and Cambridge SRF document has been prepared on behalf of MCC and SCC by Avison Young with Maccreanor Lavington Architects, Feilden Clegg Bradley Studios, Schulze+Grassov, Civic Engineers, Useful Projects and PLACED.
Following the respective Council approvals, consultation around the SRF document will begin at the end of March, the results of which will be reported to future Executive and Cabinet meetings.
Further information on the SRF can be found here.
Modern map showing the area where redevelopment is planned
Strangeways Prison in the 1940s with the bombed out Assize Courts on the right.
By the way the strange name of Strangeways, which seems totally appropriate for a prison, refers to a family name meaning a place next to a stream or a river with a strong current. Perhaps the Manchester family of the Strangeways derived their name from the River Irwell or River Irk both of which bordered their estate.
Strangeways must have been idyllic once. We have a picture of Strangeways Hall from the middle of the 18th century by mapmakers Casson & Berry when it was in the ownership of Francis Rynolds.
A later map, with the south at the top of the page, shows Strangeways Park with extravagant water features. The growing city blew all that away and in 1868 the vast and gloomy Strangeways Prison opened designed by Manchester Town Hall architect Alfred Waterhouse who had already completed the spectacular Assize Courts which were destroyed by bombs in World War II.
Maybe that promised new park can restore something of the former Strangeways Park beauty.
I am conducting a tour of this area on Sunday 4 May. Book here.
Strangeways must have been idyllic once. We have a picture of Strangeways Hall from the middle of the 18th century by mapmakers Casson & Berry when it was in the ownership of Francis Rynolds.
A later map, with the south at the top of the page, shows Strangeways Park with extravagant water features. The growing city blew all that away and in 1868 the vast and gloomy Strangeways Prison opened designed by Manchester Town Hall architect Alfred Waterhouse who had already completed the spectacular Assize Courts which were destroyed by bombs in World War II.
Maybe that promised new park can restore something of the former Strangeways Park beauty.
I am conducting a tour of this area on Sunday 4 May. Book here.
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